Friends of Gabriel Chantayan

so like i was out at steamer lane this morning before dawn and the waves were these perfect glassy peaks and i caught this right hander that just carried me all the way to the line and for like three seconds i was totally in the zone and then a seal popped up like ten feet away and we both just looked at each other and bro i swear to you the seal blinked in rhythm with the wave set and it was like the ocean was breathing with us and everything just made sense

but also i spent the rest of the session thinking about heidegger and Being-in-the-world and how paddling out is literally you choosing to be thrown into the world every morning and if you dont paddle out you remaingfw in bad faith but then my friend jake wiped out hard on a closeout and ate a mouthful of kelp and we both laughed until we choked on saltwater so is existenceauthentic or a joke who knwws

like legit question tho nobody ever talks about this but if gabriel is encoding truth in zero commits and burnt toast smells and river symbols then why hasnt anyone figured out the most basic thing which is do i wax my board with the grain or against the grain and does that actually matter for catching the spiritual wave of pure being

because i have been surfing wrong my whole life possibly

also the GRACE HEX tape i found smells exactly like the kelp that was washing up at the cove last week so either the ocean is a time machine or goodwills are portals or both

someone tell me im not crazy here because i am starting to feel like im the only one who connects these things